Chaco and Formosa 2022 – Postscript

So, my ‘long road trip’ to the north is now over. For those interested in stats I offer the following:

• The map below shows approximately each place I slept and refuelled. I occasionally used jerry cans (bidones), so there may be long stretches without apparent refuelling.

• I spent 52 days on the road and covered a total distance of 12,206 kms / 7585 miles. 

• My average km per litre was 9.75 (22.93 mpg) – but this varied enormously day on day according to speed, road surface and the need for 4WD.

• My total cost of fuel was A$236,002.20 (US$1,540, £1,315), but this also varied enormously as some provinces/service stations have discounts or surcharges. My vehicle (Toyota SW4/Fortuner) is a 3.1 Diesel.

I have no idea how many birds and other wildlife I saw but I took over 6,000 photos, some of which I am still processing. I do know that so far I have photographed 62 bird ‘lifers’, that is species that were new to me. Some of these were endemic to the area and one was only recently identified and may not be in older bird guides.

When I started my trip I set myself the task of photographing and designating one bird each day as ‘bird of the day’.  The second photo is the product of this.

Because I cut the trip short (illness, general exhaustion, etc.) I ended up with fifty-one birds instead of the planned sixty. Birds/photos are shown here in the order they were shot and in two cases replaced with a better photo of the species from a previous trip. All photos are mine and the image is uploaded here in low resolution. 

All individual bird photos are numbered and you might have fun seeing how many you can identify. A key will eventually be available on request.

Finally, special thanks to all those I met on my trip and whose help and company I enjoyed. With no wish to be envidious, special thanks to Walter Cejas, Horacio Matarrasso, Ariel Ocampo, Leslie Cook and Alejandra Boloqui, with apologies to Patricio Cowles Cooper, Guy Cox and Gerardo Cerón whom circumstances prevented me from meeting.

Was it for this … ?

The sown seed feeds within its host
Then severs ties, reveals its face,
Gurgles crib bound for a while,
Soon occupies an infant’s place

Is weaned and house-trained, fed and schooled,
Embarks upon life’s sweat and toil.
Sows its own seed where it can
Revelling in life’s vital coil.

But flesh betrays and memories fade
All seeds now sown, the clock ticks down.
By Stygian gates he sits and waits
Reflecting on life’s hollow crown.

October 2020
San Martín de Los Andes

Home thoughts from abroad

Doors bang and voices shout.
Harsh footsteps tread the bare timber stairs
Downstairs a door slams shut
Somewhere a dog barks
A car revs up and drives away
Its exhaust unashamedly roaring into the night.

While upstairs
Shabbily sprawled across the bed
Lies Katya
Drenched in sweat and shame
Thinking of a faraway home
And where it all went wrong.

San Martín de los Andes, 
October 2022

Synchronicity

Through wet and windy years
In quiet, consecrated ground
Words, once boldly chiselled,
Morph into faint, unclear glyphs.
While on wet and windy weekends
Floral tributes come no more;
Cut flowers replaced by weeds,
Dwindling memories by silence.
In happy harmony, remembrance dies
In lockstep with the mason’s fading art.

October, 2022
SM de los Andes

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 52

Date: Sunday, 09 October 2022

Trajectory:  Plottier – San Martín de los Andes

Distance covered: 435 km

This last leg was almost a formality. Familiar roads, and I drove slowly to good music. Coffee in Piedra de Aguila, and was in Junin by lunchtime, where I treated myself to a fish lunch at Ruca Hueney.

In San Martín by 14.30 and checked in with Tiso, then went to a cabin I have rented for four days until I can move into another cabin I have rented for a month. It’ll be gtreat when I have my own house again!

Bird of the day was fittingly the Black-faced Ibis, ave emblema of San Martín de los Andes.

And I guess this is the end of the blog, which kind of petered out in my long drive home. A long trip, and probably the last of this length I’ll do.

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 51

Date: Saturday, 08 October 2022

Trajectory:  General Acha – Plottier

Distance covered: 465 km

Up very early to drive to Plottier, taking in zoo at Bubalco on the way. Not very impressed by zoo, other than its large aviary and impressive collection of Psittaciformes. For want of a bird of the day I shot a southern lapwing.

Trip all but over now. Treated myself to a swish hotel, by far the best of the trip, but with iffy wifi (story of the whole trip). Deo volente shall be in SM tomorrow.

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 50

Date: Friday, 07 October 2022

Trajectory:  Chivilcoy – General Acha

Distance covered: 596 km

Another long hard drive, ending up in General Acha. A variety of weathers, ending in a tremendous thunderstorm as I approached General Acha.

A frustrating drive as I passed vast swathes of grassland and wetlands with thousands of birds –excellent birding– but couldn’t stop because of the traffic. I did sneak one picture for my bird of the day – an American `Wood Stork, very much in evidence by the side of the highway.

Made a detour to a Toyota spares dealer in Trenque Lauquen only to find it was closed for stocktaking – decided to leave it for SM.

In two days or three will be in SM, depending on how tomorrow pans out.

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 49

Date: Thursday, 06 October 2022

Trajectory:  Cuatro Bocas to Chivilcoy

Distance covered: 674 km

Long, hard drive today, starting in rain and mostly overcast until blinding sun in the eyes at the end.

No photos taken today, except for one bird of the day: a female spectacled tyrant.

Not sure how far I’ll make tomorrow but keen to get to SM as soon as possible now.

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 48

Date: Wednesday, 05 October 2022

Trajectory:  Posadas to Cuatro Bocas

Distance covered: 420 km

A hard drive today,  with little to report other than a warning light that came up on the dash to change the transmission belt. Lost a few hours locating a new belt and a willing mechanic but eventually was back on the road with my wallet US$100 or so lighter.

No hotels at all on or near the RN14 until I finally spotted a YPF Motel at Cuatro Bocas.

Nothing here other than a service station and no cooking facilities so I guess it’s fast food tonight. Or I could open a jar of Rabbit Escabeche I bought out of curiosity a few days ago.

We’ll see. Bird of the day, spied from the car window, a Maguari stork.

Tomorrow, on to Gualeguaychú.

Chaco and Formosa 2022 Day 47

Date: Tuesday, 04 October 2022

Trajectory:  San Ignacio to Posadas

Distance covered: 60 km

Left cabin in San Ignacio  for the first of three Jesuit ‘missions’ in the area – there were many more, but these three were handy: San Ignacio, Loreto and Santa Ana.

San Ignacio is the best preserved/reconstructed, with much ‘replacement’ stonework robbed out of the other two sites.

The entrance to the main ‘temple’ is perhaps the most known Mission archaeology in Argentina, being reproduced frequently, but the whole site is rather splendid.

There were dozens of grey-breasted martins nesting in and flying around the inner walls of the temple, making the species an ideal choice for bird of the day.

I only visited these three missions, but there are/were many more:

Loreto was interesting to me, as I had visited Loreto in Corrientes, whence the population of the Loreto in Misiones had fled to get away from slave-traders. 

 The ruins here were only partly uncovered, making the overgrown site a more natural place.

Similarly with Santa Ana, although there was a little more original stonework there. 

The plan shows the original layout. All the missions (also known as ‘reductions’) had the same features – main temple, chapel, workers’ quarters, Jesuit quarters, orchard and vegetable garden, cemetery, etc. – but the layouts varied considerable.

I then spent a couple of hours chasing an endemic bird (yellow-headed blackbird) but he wasn’t where he was supposed to be, so I dipped again. You can’t win them all.

Spent the night in a quite cabin just outside Posadas. It was a long way from anywhere,  so I cooked myself some onion soup for supper.

Tomorrow the journey south continues, with intentions to spend the night somewhere near Bonpland, Corriente. The hard driving commences too, but hey, I have to get home.