Day 30: 16 September 2017 – Reserva Proyecto Tagua – Fortín Toledo

Another cool day, but with a little better light than yesterday. In the morning we walked trails around the ‘Fortín Toledo’, within walking distance of the lodge where we were staying.

Gun placements and remains of trench buildings

The whole area is a reminder of the Chaco War (1932–1935), fought between Paraguay and Bolivia over ownership of the Gran Chaco; also called the ‘War of Thirst’, given the arid lands over which and in which it was fought.

Alleged sniper’s hiding place …

We could still see and walk through trenches machine gun placements (made with felled logs) from that war, including a famous hollowed out ‘drunken tree’ (Nido Francotirador) which legend has to have been a sniper’s home.

The Paraguayan national flag …

There is also an open war memorial with both countries flags flying.

… and Bolivia;s

Oscar also told us that the Bottle trees have been used by indigenous people as burial tombs. The inside is spongy and can be hollowed out to create a cavity and the body is placed in a crouching position inside. The tree eventually grows over the hole. This practice came to light when one tree was being bulldozed during land clearance.

Oscar, looking for a bolt hole, perhaps?

Then once again the Proyecto Tagua, where we saw the three types of peccary again. This was more of an educational visit, with guide. One pair (m/f) of white lip were having a most ferocious fight over food; it really was quite frightening.

View of our lodge in the Paraguayan Chaco

Back for lunch of pork with peas and mixed pure. Not feeling 100% so went for a siesta, and felt much better. Walked a 5km after siesta and saw several mara and a Geoffroy’s cat bounding across path in excellent condition.

Chacoan Mara, a rodent of the cavy family

Caroline found a lovely bird too while walking near the lodge: a Plumbeous Ibis (Theristicus caerulescens), sitting on a nest, though I caught it later on a sandy slope.

The Plumbeous Ibis that Caroline found while she was walking around the lodge

In the evening we went for a final night excursion but, despite driving around with the bright spotlight, we only saw several armadillos and some very pretty pampas foxes. Returned to Ulf who was as usual busy with his moth catcher sheet.

Pampas fox (image from Wikipedia)