{"id":3164,"date":"2018-08-14T09:48:25","date_gmt":"2018-08-14T12:48:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/?p=3164"},"modified":"2018-08-14T09:54:07","modified_gmt":"2018-08-14T12:54:07","slug":"trip-through-northern-argentina-and-paraguay-day-30-8","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/3164","title":{"rendered":"Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay \u2013 Day 30\/8"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Day 30: 16 September 2017 \u2013 Reserva Proyecto Tagua \u2013 Fort\u00edn Toledo<\/p>\n<p>Another cool day, but with a little better light than yesterday. In the morning we walked trails around the &#8216;Fort\u00edn Toledo&#8217;, within walking distance of the lodge where we were staying.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3171\" style=\"width: 1290px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3171\" class=\"wp-image-3171 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2208.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2208.jpeg 1280w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2208-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2208-400x300.jpeg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3171\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gun placements and remains of trench buildings<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The whole area is a reminder of the Chaco War (1932\u20131935), fought between Paraguay and Bolivia over ownership of the Gran Chaco; also called the &#8216;War of Thirst&#8217;, given the arid lands over which and in which it was fought.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3176\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3176\" class=\"wp-image-3176 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"938\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone2.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone2-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3176\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alleged sniper&#8217;s hiding place &#8230;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We could still see and walk through trenches machine gun placements (made with felled logs) from that war, including a famous hollowed out &#8216;drunken tree&#8217; (Nido Francotirador) which legend has to have been a sniper&#8217;s home.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3170\" style=\"width: 2602px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3170\" class=\"wp-image-3170 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-Paraguayan-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2592\" height=\"1728\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-Paraguayan-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg 2592w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-Paraguayan-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-Paraguayan-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--450x300.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2592px) 100vw, 2592px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3170\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Paraguayan national flag &#8230;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>There is also an open war memorial with both countries flags flying.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3167\" style=\"width: 2602px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3167\" class=\"wp-image-3167 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170914-Bolivian-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2592\" height=\"1728\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170914-Bolivian-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg 2592w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170914-Bolivian-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170914-Bolivian-flag-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--450x300.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2592px) 100vw, 2592px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3167\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8230; and Bolivia;s<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Oscar also told us that the Bottle trees have been used by indigenous people as burial tombs. The inside is spongy and can be hollowed out to create a cavity and the body is placed in a crouching position inside. The tree eventually grows over the hole. This practice came to light when one tree was being bulldozed during land clearance.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3175\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3175\" class=\"wp-image-3175 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"940\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/redone-223x300.jpg 223w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3175\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oscar, looking for a bolt hole, perhaps?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Then once again the Proyecto Tagua, where we saw the three types of peccary again. This was more of an educational visit, with guide. One pair (m\/f) of white lip were having a most ferocious fight over food; it really was quite frightening.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3174\" style=\"width: 1290px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3174\" class=\"wp-image-3174 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2234.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"928\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2234.jpeg 1280w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2234-768x557.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_2234-414x300.jpeg 414w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3174\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of our lodge in the Paraguayan Chaco<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Back for lunch of pork with peas and mixed pure. Not feeling 100% so went for a siesta, and felt much better. Walked a 5km after siesta and saw several mara and a Geoffroy&#8217;s cat bounding across path in excellent condition.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3181\" style=\"width: 568px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3181\" class=\"wp-image-3181 \" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/\u0427\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0430\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f_\u0438\u043b\u0438_\u0447\u0430\u043a\u0441\u043a\u0430\u044f_\u0438\u043b\u0438_\u043c\u0430\u043b\u0430\u044f_\u043c\u0430\u0440\u0430_Dolichotis_salinicola_Chacoan_mara_Kleiner_Mara_Tierpark_Berlin_Friedrichsfelde_10.2012.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"558\" height=\"376\"\/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3181\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chacoan Mara,&nbsp;a rodent of the cavy family<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Caroline found a lovely bird too while walking near the lodge: a Plumbeous Ibis (Theristicus caerulescens), sitting on a nest, though I caught it later on a sandy slope.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3168\" style=\"width: 2602px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3168\" class=\"wp-image-3168 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-bandurria-mora-2-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2592\" height=\"1817\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-bandurria-mora-2-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo-.jpg 2592w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-bandurria-mora-2-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--768x538.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/170916-bandurria-mora-2-Theristicus-caerulescens-Reserva-Proyecto-Tagua-Fortin-Toledo--428x300.jpg 428w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2592px) 100vw, 2592px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3168\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Plumbeous Ibis that Caroline found while she was walking around the lodge<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In the evening we went for a final night excursion but, despite driving around with the bright spotlight, we only saw several armadillos and some very pretty pampas foxes. Returned to Ulf who was as usual busy with his moth catcher sheet.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3177\" style=\"width: 2570px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3177\" class=\"wp-image-3177 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Lycalopex_gymnocercus.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Lycalopex_gymnocercus.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Lycalopex_gymnocercus-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/Lycalopex_gymnocercus-450x300.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-3177\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pampas fox (image from Wikipedia)<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Day 30: 16 September 2017 \u2013 Reserva Proyecto Tagua \u2013 Fort\u00edn Toledo Another cool day, but with a little better light than yesterday. In the morning we walked trails around the &#8216;Fort\u00edn Toledo&#8217;, within walking distance of the lodge where &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/3164\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3164","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel-2","category-trip-ne-argentina-and-paraguay"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3164","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3164"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3164\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3182,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3164\/revisions\/3182"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3164"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3164"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3164"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}