{"id":2327,"date":"2016-11-17T23:28:55","date_gmt":"2016-11-18T02:28:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/?p=2327"},"modified":"2017-01-05T09:58:45","modified_gmt":"2017-01-05T12:58:45","slug":"trip-through-chile-and-welsh-patagonia-day-7-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/2327","title":{"rendered":"Trip through Chile and [Welsh] Patagonia \u2013 Day 7"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Wednesday 16 November, 2016: Los Altares &#8211; Trelew<\/em><\/p>\n<p>We left Los Altares after a basic breakfast in the ACA cafe and drove east towards the Atlantic. Today was not supposed to be a wildlife day, but after a couple of hours driving we came across a herd of guanaco in the distance and then two splendid animals quite close to the road. A lovely sight, and a first for Caroline.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2349\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2349\" class=\"wp-image-2349 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1-5.jpg\" alt=\"1\" width=\"700\" height=\"520\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1-5-404x300.jpg 404w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2349\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our first big wild animal &#8211; a guanaco, one of several by the side of the road<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We stopped for a second breakfast in Las Plumas, where we were yet again served undrinkable coffee and made a note to carry coffee and filters with us in future. Perhaps\u00a0expresso machines are expensive for smaller establishments like this.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2350\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2350\" class=\"wp-image-2350 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1a-1.jpg\" alt=\"1a\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1a-1.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1a-1-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2350\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coffee stop in Las Plumas<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On our way to Trelew we made a short diversion to see the huge <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Florentino_Ameghino_Dam\">Dique Ameghino<\/a> dam. We drove over the top of it, not without a sense of vertigo, and looked cautiously down into the valley below.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2352\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2352\" class=\"wp-image-2352 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/2-5.jpg\" alt=\"2\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/2-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/2-5-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2352\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Driving over the Dique Ameghino<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The water in the reservoir and also in the stream below was a beautiful clear greeny-blue, although to save time (we seem to be always on a tight schedule!) we didn&#8217;t drive down to the small settlement at ground level but turned round and back to the main road east.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2351\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2351\" class=\"wp-image-2351 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1b.jpg\" alt=\"1b\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1b.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/1b-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2351\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of the valley from the top of the dam<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Soon we were in the Welsh town of <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dolavon\">Dolavon<\/a>, where we had a huge lunch at the <em>El Rayo<\/em> restaurant, perhaps (?) the only restaurant in town and at least the only one we could find. Welcome beer and good wholesome food put us in a good mood.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2353\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2353\" class=\"wp-image-2353 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/3-5.jpg\" alt=\"3\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/3-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/3-5-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2353\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch stop in Dolavon<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We drove around Dolavon, which was an attractive if sleepy town, with (apparently) a Welsh butcher &#8230;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2354\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2354\" class=\"wp-image-2354 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/4-5.jpg\" alt=\"4\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/4-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/4-5-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2354\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welsh butcher (?) in Dolavon<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&#8230; and more than one pretty bird (though Martin is rationed in his bird shots on this trip). This little beauty is a red-crested cardinal (<i>Paroaria coronata<\/i>), his gorgeous headgear a perfect match for the painted kerbs of Dolavon.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2355\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2355\" class=\"wp-image-2355 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/5-5.jpg\" alt=\"5\" width=\"700\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/5-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/5-5-397x300.jpg 397w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2355\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colourful Cardenal on kerb at Dolavon<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Irrigation streams ran through the town in Dolavon, some with quite ingenious mechanisms for raising water (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/7.mov\">see here for video clip<\/a>).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2356\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2356\" class=\"wp-image-2356 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/6-5.jpg\" alt=\"6\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/6-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/6-5-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2356\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another Welsh chapel in Dolavon<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The Welsh belt, especially in farmland alongside the river Chubut around Dolavon, Gaiman and Trelew, is known for its Welsh chapels. Above is one we saw on leaving\u00a0Dolavon for Gaiman.<\/p>\n<p>In Gaiman we asked a student the way to the railway museum; she is wearing a teeshirt that comes from a school where Welsh is taught. In Gaiman the teaching of Welsh is on the increase, but funding is\u00a0precarious and the future seems uncertain.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2357\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2357\" class=\"wp-image-2357 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/8-5.jpg\" alt=\"8\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/8-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/8-5-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2357\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Schoolgirl in Gaiman with Welsh school teeshirt<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The young lady directed us to what had in another life been a railway station, but now was the local museum<a href=\"http:\/\/www.historvius.com\/welsh-regional-historical-museum-1683\/\">\u00a0<\/a>and housed many photographs, documents and artefacts \u00a0of settlers who had come to the region. Here we met Fabio Gonz\u00e1lez, who has curated the collection for the last six years; his aunt <a href=\"http:\/\/www.buenosairesherald.com\/article\/160864\/tegai-roberts-(19272014)\">Tegai Roberts<\/a> had done this previously and was there when Martin visited in the 1980s. Fabio was a wealth of information and a pleasure to chat with.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2358\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2358\" class=\"wp-image-2358 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/9-4.jpg\" alt=\"9\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/9-4.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/9-4-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2358\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The old Gaiman Railway Station, now a museum<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Obviously there was a Welsh dresser in the collection, along with harps, harmoniums, cooking utensils and a wealth of other items, together\u00a0with scores of fascinating photos and documents.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2359\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2359\" class=\"wp-image-2359 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10-5.jpg\" alt=\"10\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10-5.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10-5-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2359\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welsh dresser in the Gaiman Welsh Museum<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On one\u00a0wall in the museum was a map of Wales; the extract below shows the area Caroline and Martin know so well &#8211; Martin through childhood and university days and Caroline also through some thirty years living there as an adult.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2360\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2360\" class=\"wp-image-2360 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10a-2.jpg\" alt=\"10a\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10a-2.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/10a-2-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-2360\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Map in Welsh museum of our part of Wales<\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gaiman,_Chubut\">Gaiman<\/a> is perhaps the most Welsh of the towns in the Welsh belt, and there is a real Welsh feel; many of the people simply look Welsh and would not be out of place in the streets of <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Machynlleth\">Machynlleth<\/a>. Yes, we were definitely in Welsh Patagonia now, and enjoying every minute of it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Wednesday 16 November, 2016: Los Altares &#8211; Trelew We left Los Altares after a basic breakfast in the ACA cafe and drove east towards the Atlantic. Today was not supposed to be a wildlife day, but after a couple of &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/2327\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,36],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2327","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel-2","category-trip-welsh-patagonia-2016"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2327","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2327"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2327\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2503,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2327\/revisions\/2503"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2327"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2327"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2327"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}