{"id":1297,"date":"2014-11-17T11:46:40","date_gmt":"2014-11-17T14:46:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/?p=1297"},"modified":"2014-11-17T11:46:40","modified_gmt":"2014-11-17T14:46:40","slug":"rn40-south-day-10","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/1297","title":{"rendered":"RN40 south, day 10"},"content":{"rendered":"<h4><strong>Day<\/strong>: 10<br \/>\n<strong>Trajectory<\/strong>: Punta Arenas &#8211; Porvenir &#8211; San Sebastian &#8211; R\u00edo Grande &#8211; Ushuaia<\/h4>\n<h4><strong>Distance covered<\/strong>: \u00a0 489\u00a0km<\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>The last leg of the journey south was from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, where we intended to rest up for a few days. Tiso would then fly back to San Mart\u00edn de los Andes [via Buenos Aires and Neuqu\u00e9n] and I would drive slowly back up the Atlantic coast, filling in the missing bits of the RN40.<\/em><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1304\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6458-bb-strange-woman.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1304\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1304\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6458-bb-strange-woman.jpg\" alt=\"B&amp;B in Punta Arenas, run by a friendly if rather odd old lady\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6458-bb-strange-woman.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6458-bb-strange-woman-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1304\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">B&amp;B in Punta Arenas, run by a friendly if rather odd old lady<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We spent the night in Punta Arenas in a very strange B&amp;B, run by an even stranger old Lady. After an early breakfast, during which she stood over us while we ate, we were off to Tierra del Fuego, jointly owned and accupied by Chile and Argentina.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1319\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Untitled-13-with-border.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1319\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Untitled-13-with-border.jpg\" alt=\"Route of the day (not driven in straight lines, however!)\" width=\"700\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Untitled-13-with-border.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Untitled-13-with-border-464x300.jpg 464w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1319\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Route of the day (not driven in straight lines, however!). Chile to the left of the red line.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>It is easy to forget which country you are in down here, as there are ferrys that are not borders and inland frontiers which are not ferries. But all our crossings went smoothly and quickly, and we were blessed by good weather.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1305\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6461-boarding-ferry.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1305\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1305\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6461-boarding-ferry.jpg\" alt=\"Boarding the ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6461-boarding-ferry.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6461-boarding-ferry-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1305\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boarding the ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We took the ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir, still in Chile. One of us slept on the ferry while the other dropped into sketching mode.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1316\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/la-foto-2-tiso-pic.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1316\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1316\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/la-foto-2-tiso-pic.jpg\" alt=\"Blog owner catching up on his sleep while Tiso has an artistic moment\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/la-foto-2-tiso-pic.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/la-foto-2-tiso-pic-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1316\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blog owner catching up on his sleep while Tiso has an artistic moment<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As you can see, it was a comfortable ride.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1307\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6463-bajamos-en-porvenir.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1307\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1307\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6463-bajamos-en-porvenir.jpg\" alt=\"A snapshot of Porvenir, which we hardly visited in our haste to drive on\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6463-bajamos-en-porvenir.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6463-bajamos-en-porvenir-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1307\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A snapshot of Porvenir, which we hardly visited in our haste to drive on<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Soon we were in Porvenir and on\u00a0firm\u00a0land again, back on the road and driving West to the border with Argentina at San Sebastian. It was good to be on the road again.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1308\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6467-on-the-road-again.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1308\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6467-on-the-road-again.jpg\" alt=\"On the road again after our ferry ride\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6467-on-the-road-again.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6467-on-the-road-again-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1308\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On the road again after our ferry ride<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We were now in Tierra del Fuego, the Chilean part. Our road at first hugged the coastline, with some spectacular views:<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1309\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6468-along-the-shoreline.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1309\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1309\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6468-along-the-shoreline.jpg\" alt=\"We hugged the shore line for the first part of the day's driving\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6468-along-the-shoreline.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6468-along-the-shoreline-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1309\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">We hugged the shore line for the first part of the day&#8217;s driving<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Everything was fine until half away along the inland road we were given a lesson in just how sharp the volcanic rock on the roads down here can be:<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1310\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6469-until-...jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1310\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1310\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6469-until-...jpg\" alt=\"Victims of super-sharp volcanic rock\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6469-until-...jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6469-until-..-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1310\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Victims of super-sharp volcanic rock<\/p><\/div>\n<p>These things happen, and to be fair we had been warned about this. We were carrying two spares but this one was beyond repair and\u00a0would\u00a0clearly need to be replaced at the first opportunity. One down and one to go. As Tiso commented, we were using just about everything we had packed for &#8217;emergencies&#8217; like this.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1311\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6470-on-the-roof.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1311\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1311\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6470-on-the-roof.jpg\" alt=\"Wheel changed, and kept for the alloy wheel only. Back on our way.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6470-on-the-roof.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6470-on-the-roof-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1311\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wheel changed, and kept for the alloy wheel only. Back on our way.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We stopped for a bite to eat and eventually hit the town of San Sebastian (Chile) where we got a bite to eat.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1314\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6479-lunch-and-back-into-Argentina1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1314\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1314\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6479-lunch-and-back-into-Argentina1.jpg\" alt=\"Another remote eating place, one of so many we stopped at during our journey\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6479-lunch-and-back-into-Argentina1.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6479-lunch-and-back-into-Argentina1-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1314\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another remote eating place, one of so many we stopped at during our journey<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We drove across the two frontier posts and were now back in Tierra del Fuego, the Argentine part. Our next stop would be Rio Grande if we chose to stop there. We were accompanied along this road \u2013as in much of Tierra de Fuego\u2013 by flocks of guanaco, some super timid and some cautiously curious of us.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1312\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6478-guanaco-everywhere-in-TdF.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1312\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1312\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6478-guanaco-everywhere-in-TdF.jpg\" alt=\"One of a great many flocks of guanaco that we saw \" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6478-guanaco-everywhere-in-TdF.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6478-guanaco-everywhere-in-TdF-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1312\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of a great many flocks of guanaco that we saw\u00a0<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The guanaco are not fenced in, but roam wild. They are excellent at jumping fences to get to greener grass or to escape passing Jeeps. I began to like the guanacos; they are dignified, independent and essentially free.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1321\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_7163.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1321\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1321\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_7163.jpg\" alt=\"Closer view of guanaco - such curious animals\" width=\"700\" height=\"575\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_7163.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_7163-365x300.jpg 365w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1321\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Closer view of guanaco &#8211; such curious animals<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Back in Argentina it was still flat, open country. We decided to drive on to Ushuaia and drove right by Rio Grande (I would visit it on the way north). As we drove closer to Ushuaia we\u00a0came back into a mountainous area &#8211; although not as high as the Andes further north they still offer spectacular views.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1315\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6482-back-in-the-mountains.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1315\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6482-back-in-the-mountains.jpg\" alt=\"Back in the mountains as we continue south to Ushuaia\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6482-back-in-the-mountains.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_6482-back-in-the-mountains-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1315\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Back in the mountains as we continue south to Ushuaia<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We arrived in Ushuaia in the evening, tired but well, and fixed up lodgings for a few nights in a <em>hostal<\/em>\u00a0and a <em>hosteria<\/em>, side by side, alternating as bookings at each were tight\u00a0but between the two we managed. \u00a0More in the next blog.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Day: 10 Trajectory: Punta Arenas &#8211; Porvenir &#8211; San Sebastian &#8211; R\u00edo Grande &#8211; Ushuaia Distance covered: \u00a0 489\u00a0km &nbsp; The last leg of the journey south was from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, where we intended to rest up for &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/1297\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[32,16,34,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1297","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-for-fb","category-travel-2","category-trip-ruta-40-south","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1297","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1297"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1297\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1322,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1297\/revisions\/1322"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1297"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1297"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1297"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}