{"id":1163,"date":"2014-11-09T10:18:31","date_gmt":"2014-11-09T13:18:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/?p=1163"},"modified":"2014-11-09T10:20:44","modified_gmt":"2014-11-09T13:20:44","slug":"rn40-south-day-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/1163","title":{"rendered":"RN40 south, day 4"},"content":{"rendered":"<h4><strong>Day<\/strong>: 4<br \/>\n<strong>Trajectory<\/strong>: \u00a0Perito Moreno &#8211; Los Antiguos &#8211; <em>Los\u00a0menucos<\/em><\/h4>\n<h4><strong>Distance covered<\/strong>: \u00a0 123 km<\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>This is a day that did not go as planned. It started well and finished badly. We had been looking for\u00a0an adventure, and we got one. Be careful what you wish for, &#8230;.<\/em><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1172\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5866-cabin-at-PM.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1172\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1172\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5866-cabin-at-PM.jpg\" alt=\"Cabin at Perito Moreno Municipal camping site\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5866-cabin-at-PM.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5866-cabin-at-PM-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1172\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cabin at Perito Moreno Municipal camping site<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We had spent the night at the municipal camping site in Perito Moreno; no heating but we had sleeping bags. No wifi either, a pattern that would repeat itself for the next few days. But it was a good night, we slept well and we left in great spirits.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1173\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5868-gas-stopLos-Antig.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1173\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1173\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5868-gas-stopLos-Antig.jpg\" alt=\"Fuelling in Perito Moreno\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5868-gas-stopLos-Antig.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5868-gas-stopLos-Antig-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1173\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fuelling in Perito Moreno<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We filled up with fuel in Perito Moreno and drove off on what we had planned to be a side trip to visit Los Antiguos, a pretty town to the west. Once there we decided that rather than drive back to Perito Moreno we would drive over the R41, a mountain road that would link up with our day&#8217;s destination, Bajo Caracoles. We had been told by our friend Gonzalo that this was a spectacular road, and indeed it turned out to be so.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1176\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5881-the-bread-shop.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1176\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1176\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5881-the-bread-shop.jpg\" alt=\"Bakery in Los Antiguos, and dispenser of advice and wisdom\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5881-the-bread-shop.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5881-the-bread-shop-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1176\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bakery in Los Antiguos, and dispenser of advice and wisdom<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This decision was supported by the lady in the panaderia in Los Antiguos who told us we would be likely to see Mac\u00e1 Tobiano (Hooded Grebe) in lagoons alongside the road and that it was a straightforward drive, a view supported by a woman in the Aduana at the Los Antiguos frontier.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1182\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/141102-condor-juvenil-ruta-41-near-Los-Antiguos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1182\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1182\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/141102-condor-juvenil-ruta-41-near-Los-Antiguos.jpg\" alt=\"Juvenile condor, one of some half dozen on the R4i from Los Antiguos\" width=\"700\" height=\"434\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/141102-condor-juvenil-ruta-41-near-Los-Antiguos.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/141102-condor-juvenil-ruta-41-near-Los-Antiguos-483x300.jpg 483w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1182\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Juvenile condor in its brown plumage, one of some half dozen on the R41 from Los Antiguos<\/p><\/div>\n<p>So we set off on the R41, and indeed it was a beautiful, spectacular drive. We didn&#8217;t see any Hooded Grebes (it was always too good to be true) but did see a lot of birds, including \u00a0steamer ducks and half a dozen juvenile condors who circled us with interest. They were accompanied by a single adult female, and seemed to be learning how to fly, taking short trips and returning to land. We were of no concern whatsoever to them and sat for some twenty minutes enjoying the spectacle.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1178\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5959-Tiso-watching-condors.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1178\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1178\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5959-Tiso-watching-condors.jpg\" alt=\"Tiso enjoying the condor show\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5959-Tiso-watching-condors.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5959-Tiso-watching-condors-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1178\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiso enjoying the condor show<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Further along the road we came across a car with a family camping in a valley who flagged us down. They were suffering from a flat battery and had been there for three days in which time no traffic had gone by.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1167\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_0948-good-samaritans.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1167\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1167\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_0948-good-samaritans.jpg\" alt=\"Playing good samaritans ...\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_0948-good-samaritans.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_0948-good-samaritans-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1167\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Playing good samaritans &#8230;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We found out later that this was because the road was closed, but traffic is so light in this part of the world anyway that it sounded normal to us. We were able to help them, and continued on our way.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1171\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/stopped-by-snow.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1171\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1171\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/stopped-by-snow.jpg\" alt=\"Finally snow blocked the road completely.\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/stopped-by-snow.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/stopped-by-snow-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1171\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Finally snow blocked the road completely.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The road continued to climb way above the treeline until we reached the top of the world, or at least it felt like it, some 2,300 metres high. We continued, until finally there was simply too much snow for us to drive through. The combined depth of snow and soft mud beneath was too much for Silver the Jeep to handle.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1180\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5969-searchin-a-route.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1180\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1180\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5969-searchin-a-route.jpg\" alt=\"Tiso surveys the terrain\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5969-searchin-a-route.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/MG_5969-searchin-a-route-449x300.jpg 449w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1180\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiso surveys the terrain<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Tis went off to look at the rocky land to see if we could skirt the snowfall by driving overland. He found a route that looked firm and where the rocks were of a reasonable size and we set off cross country, trusting in the Jeep to get us through. It would probably have worked, but what we couldn&#8217;t see was that we were crossing an underground stream and the weight of the fully laden jeep was just too much. The jeep and its inhabitants were going nowhere.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1168\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/bogged-down.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1168\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1168\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/bogged-down.jpg\" alt=\"Heavy jeep + soft ground = immobility\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/bogged-down.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/bogged-down-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1168\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heavy jeep + soft ground = immobility<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Our spirits were good, but our attempts to dig out were useless, the Jeep continued to sink until its floor was resting on the ground and there was nothing we could do to get it onto solid ground.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1169\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_1615-stopped-by-snow.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1169\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1169\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_1615-stopped-by-snow.jpg\" alt=\"Tiso valiantly tries to dig us out, to no avail\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_1615-stopped-by-snow.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/IMG_1615-stopped-by-snow-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1169\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiso valiantly tries to dig us out, to no avail<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We evaluated our position. It was about 6 pm, and we calculated that there was a border post which would probably be manned some 25 kms away. There was clearly\u00a0insufficient\u00a0time or light to walk that night so we agreed we would spend the night in the car and set off at first light. We had the proper equipment for an emergency like this, but were also aware that a lot depended on the weather &#8211; it can change very quickly in the Andes, and walking through a snowstorm the following day was not a prospect to be welcomed.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1185\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Donnie-Darko-quotes-8.gif\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1185\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1185\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Donnie-Darko-quotes-8.gif\" alt=\"Probably not the ideal movie for our situation\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1185\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Probably not the ideal movie for our situation<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As night fell we munched on the bread we had bought in Los Antiguos and watched one of the three movies I had on my iPad, <em>Donnie Darko<\/em>. The film itself is surreal enough, but watching it stranded in the Cordillera in subzero temperatures lent\u00a0it an extra sense of the bizarre. The message was not too encouraging either, but neither of us commented on it.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1170\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/night-settles-in.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1170\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1170\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/night-settles-in.jpg\" alt=\"Night falls in the Cordillera as we plan our walk to safety the following day\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/night-settles-in.jpg 700w, https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/night-settles-in-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1170\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Night falls in the Cordillera as we plan our walk to safety the following day<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Obviously we did get\u00a0away, and I&#8217;ll explain how in the next day&#8217;s blog.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Day: 4 Trajectory: \u00a0Perito Moreno &#8211; Los Antiguos &#8211; Los\u00a0menucos Distance covered: \u00a0 123 km &nbsp; This is a day that did not go as planned. It started well and finished badly. We had been looking for\u00a0an adventure, and we &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/archives\/1163\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[32,16,34],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1163","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-for-fb","category-travel-2","category-trip-ruta-40-south"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1163"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1191,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163\/revisions\/1191"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1163"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1163"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eayrs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1163"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}