The story of Lolog Lake

Lolog is a lake located some 12 km from the town of San Martín de los Andes, a town in northern Argentine Patagonia. It can at times be a very windy and inhospitable place. This Mapuche legend tells of its history. 

Many years ago, in the valley where today lies Lake Lolog, there was once a much smaller lake known as Paila Có, surrounded by marsh and wetlands. The name of the lake in the Mapundungun language means calm water, and look though you might, a more peaceful place you would never have found. A Mapuche family lived in a nearby cabin, and they had the most beautiful darkhaired daughter who would spend her evenings combing her hair at the edge of the lake.

One chill autumn evening the young girl heard a voice calling her from the waters of the lake. Across the waters drifted the words “Come with me … I’m a king, young like you, and I’m lonely …. all alone in the lands I rule … come and live with me and let me make you a rich and happy queen”. And shortly a handsome young man emerged from the water and stood in front of the young girl. Bewitched by his shining apparel and captivating voice and oblivious to the pleas and screams of her parents calling to her not to abandon them she followed  him back into the waters of the lake.

A year or so later the young girl appeared at her parents’ cabin, resplendent in rich clothes and sumptuous jewellery. “Don’t mourn for me”, she said, “I’m happy with my King and I’ll come and see you every year. The only thing missing in my life is your love for me”. 

And with that, she turned and walked back towards the waters of the lake. Her father in his desperation grabbed his daughter fiercely by the arm to prevent her from leaving, saying: “You are our daughter. You belong here. I’ll never let you go without us”.

Such were his words, and they were to be obeyed. At that very moment a strong tremor shook the peace of the valley and the girl was carried back into the water by a hurricane wind.  The cabin where her parents lived slowly sank into the soft marshland, taking her parents with it. The water levels rose, and the cabin and its surroundings were submerged forever.

It is said today, by those who still remember these things, that on Lake Lolog on a calm day, not that there are many of them now, the waters clear enough to reveal the cabin and its inhabitants deep below. And whenever, nostalgic for their lost green lands, the girl’s parents leave the lake to revisit the green lands of their past the waters of the lake once again boil and unleash storms that shake the land all around so much that no one dares to come near the lake or sail on its waters.

Crosby, Stills and Nash

Crosby, Stills and Nash

This eponymous album was the first by Crosby, Stills & Nash, released at the end of May 1969 by Atlantic Records. It was a very strong album for a debut, and (with an on/off relationship with Neil Young) they became legend. Their first public performance of some tracks off the album was in 1969 at Woodstock, a legend in itself. The album cover curiously shows the three from right to left, but hey, who cares.

I heard this album for the first time in 1969, in a Holiday Inn in Acapulco. I have memories of sitting lotus on a bedroom floor, one in a circle of people, passing the joints round and digging the new music. As one did. I also have memories of being thrown out of the hotel a little later but back then that was par for the course.

Good memories, and rehearing it today a good album. The harmonies still work, the lyrics still please and even without the weed it still takes me away.

Huerque Mapu

 

Huerque Mapu (1972/3)

I first arrived in Argentina in early 1975, at a time now crystallised on celluloid by Argentina’s post-Junta cinema but then very real; a time of the AAA, the ERP, the Montoneros. A country led indeterminately either by a nightclub dancer President or her warlock, de facto prime minister: a man who determined national policy through astrological divination. The nightclub dancer shared her Rasputin’s interest in the occult.

I have memories of green Ford Falcons driven manically on and off pavements, both cars and drivers quite bereft of identification, front seat passengers leaning out of the windows with Ithakas, spraying pavements, shopfronts and the occasional passer-by with bullets. I have memories of people I met at parties that I never met again. Couldn’t meet again. Memories of a honeymoon in the Cordoba Hills punctuated by the sound of not-so-distant gunfire. I remember we never exchanged phone numbers, because they could so easily bring an Ithaca to the front door. I could go on – you get the picture.

I was living in Palermo, in a small bedsit with a girl I had met in Barcelona. I had arrived with a backpack and had no music of my own, but she had a small collection. I remember some of the albums: Cat Stevens, Caetano Veloso, that sort of stuff. And this album: the eponymous Huerque Mapu, their first, released in 1972 or 73. Neither I nor the girl I lived with have a copy any longer, and they are probably like gold dust but the tracks are still available (see below).

‘Huerque Mapu’ was the name of the band and the album. The words are from Mapungdun, a language of the Mapuche peoples, and mean ‘messengers of the earth’. The album is political, and its artists had wisely fled the country by the time I arrived in Buenos Aires. One track has stayed with me and is still a recurring earworm that pops up in the strangest places. That track is the hauntingly sad Vamos Mujer. Outside the album it is the closing piece of the Santa María de Iquique, cantata popular, a classical/folk fusion performance that tells of a 1907 industrial dispute that ended with the massacre of hundreds of nitrate miners in the northern Chilean city of Iquique.

As massacres go, and Latin America has had its fair (or unfair) share, it was a bad one. The miners had a more than just cause, one still unanswered in the 1950s when Ernesto (Che) Guevara and Alberto Granado passed through the region. I was not so conscious politically in those hazy, smoke-filled days but this one song had a pathos, a sadness,  a resignedness that would bring on tears. This is not to denigrate the other tracks on the album; they are all good, but this one song really did (and does) affect me.

So, for me this album is another powerful blast from the past; a memory of my first arrival in  Buenos Aires. It was a different time, I was a different person, but the album brings it all back together.

The track ‘Vamos Mujer’ and in fact the whole album can be downloaded from https://archive.org/details/perrerachmhm1972.

Track listing

El cuento
La Fiesta de San Benito
Sacha Shulko
Vamos mujer
Carta del soldado
Trelew
El Canelazo
Ojito de agua
Coplas del Valle Calchaqui
Run-Run se fue pa’l norte

Dedicado a Antonio Machado, poeta

Anyone who studied Spanish in Europe in the late 60s or early 1970s will have heard this album, and a great many, like me, will have bought it. It is a simply a collection of twelve poems by the great Spanish poet Antonio Machado, sung by the inimitable Catalan cantautor Joan Manuel Serrat. On the back of this work Serrat was awarded First Prize in a 2000 competition organised by the Fundación Española Antonio Machado for the promotion of Machado’s work.

Not that Machado’s poetry needs much promotion. I was never quite sure, and the doubt remains to this day, which I prefer here: Machado’s words, or Serrat’s arrangements and performance. It’s probably the case that the result is greater than the sum of its parts, and for me the effect has always been mesmerising. I do have to say that Serrat went on to make a similar album based on the work of Góngora that did nothing at all for me, but then I was never much of a Góngora fan.

I did my first degree in English and Spanish Literature, so this was in a sense both work and play, and if I had not spoken Spanish at this stage it is unlikely that I would have engaged with it. But engage I did, and it is an album that has never strayed far away from me. Just one example, and `I could have pulled out many: whenever I have heard Machado’s predictive words in Cantares: Murió el poeta lejos del hogar / Le cubre el polvo de un país vecino I have wondered which country’s dust will one day cover me. Now, I suppose, it is increasingly likely that it will be Patagonian dust for me rather than the dust that was to cover the exiled Machado in Collioure.

The album, Serrat’s second, was made immediately after his conflict with Eurovision 1968, in which he withdrew and was replaced at the last moment because he was prevented from singing in Catalan. Ironic, perhaps, that this, together with Mediterráneo,  his two best selling albums, should have been recorded in Spanish but he did achieve fantastic coverage with it, not just for himself but also for Machado.

NB The cover art I have included is that put out in the UK – there are several others out there.

Track listing

Cantares
Retrato
Guitarra del meson
Las moscas
Llanto y coplas
La saeta
Del pasado efímero
Españolito
A un olmo seco
He andado muchos caminos
En Colliure
Parábola

All lyrics by Antonio Machado, guitar and voice by Joan Manuel Serrat

 

Giant Step/De Ole Folks at Home

Giant Step/De Ole Folks at Home 1969

Today’s album (or albums) for reflection: ‘Giant Step/De Ole Folks at Home’, a 1968 studio double album by American blues artist Taj Mahal. The first disc (Giant Step) is electric, while the second (De Ole Folks at Home) is acoustic. Available on Spotify.

I was into the blues at an early age, but I was quick to learn that there is blues and blues. Many, many kinds, and some I learned to love more than others. My early foraging was with old black American musicians, some of whom regularly ventured over to the UK where their music was more popular than in their native land: Howling Wolf, Champion Jack Dupree, Lightning Hopkins, Sonny Terry and Brownie McGee, that ilk. And some British R&B bands in the 60s were covering their kind of music, in a tentative sort of way. The old-timers had the soul but were often pedestrian in their musical artistry; the young white Brits had on the whole better technical skills but failed to get under the skin of the genre.

In 1969 I was living in México D.F. studying at UNAM. I had a record player of sorts and half a dozen records; this was one of them. I heard it at a friend’s house and went straight out to Hip70 in the Zona Rosa and bought my own copy. I loved it then, and I love it now. The first album is ‘De Ole Folks At Home’, an acoustic solo set incorporating old-time steel-body slide fingerpicking, clawhammer banjo, raw harmonica, moans and body slapping. The set includes classic numbers as well as several originals. ‘Giant Step’ is electrified, with driving rhythms, downhome grooves and an occasional Cajun feel; funky and fun.

Taj Mahal was a stage name; his real name was Henry Saint Clair Fredericks. I saw him play in Buenos Aires In the 1990s as a warmup for ‘Master of the Telecaster’ Albert Collins. I wasn’t that impressed with Collins: loud and noisy, but not very subtle. The head-banging crowd loved him, but turned against Taj Mahal, who suffered a lot of unkind barracking. That Taj Mahal set was for me superb; first half acoustic guitar, second set on piano, as he took the audience through a whole range of blues genres. But they didn’t listen – they did not know how. Pearls before swine, I fear.

I have listened to this double album regularly over the years, and some tracks are still on my current playlists. He’s an accomplished musician, music scholar and musicologist and has recorded a wide variety of styles. And he’s won two Grammy Awards, so I can’t be his only admirer.

Track listing – ‘Giant Step’
Ain’t Gwine Whistle Dixie No More (Taj Mahal, Jesse Ed Davis, Gary Gilmore, Chuck Blackwell)
Take a Giant Step (Carole King, Gerry Goffin)
Give Your Woman What She Wants (Taj Mahal, Joel Hirschhorn)
Good Morning Little Schoolgirl (Don Level, Bob Love)
You’re Gonna Need Somebody on Your Bond (Buffy Sainte-Marie)
Six Days on the Road (Carl Montgomery, Earl Green)
Farther on Down the Road (You Will Accompany Me) (Taj Mahal, Jesse Ed Davis, Gary Gilmore, Chuck Blackwell)
Keep Your Hands Off Her (Huddie Ledbetter)
Bacon Fat (Robbie Robertson, Garth Hudson)

Track listing – ‘De Ole Folks at Home’
Linin’ Track (Huddie Ledbetter)
Country Blues No. 1 (Traditional; arranged by Taj Mahal)
Wild Ox Moan (Vera Hall, Ruby Pickens Tartt)
Light Rain Blues (Taj Mahal)
Little Soulful Tune (Taj Mahal)
Candy Man (Rev. Gary Davis)
Cluck Old Hen (Traditional; arranged by Taj Mahal)
Colored Aristocracy (Traditional; arranged by Taj Mahal)
Blind Boy Rag (Taj Mahal)
Stagger Lee (Harold Logan, Lloyd Price)
Cajun Tune (Taj Mahal)
Fishin’ Blues (Henry Thomas, Taj Mahal)
Annie’s Lover (Traditional; arranged by Taj Mahal)

Blues Breakers with Eric Clapton (aka The Beano Album)

Blues Breakers with Eric Clapton (aka The Beano Album): featuring John Mayall, Eric Clapton, John McVie & Hughie Flint

In the early 1960s I was still at school, somewhat obsessed by folk, burgeoning folk-rock and blues music. I was attending folk and blues all-nighters at the Cousins, getting into early Dylan and buying cheap sampler albums of old blues artists like Lightning Hopkins, Sonny and Brownie, etc. And then came Clapton.

In 1963 the 18 year old Eric Clapton was a teenage guitar prodigy with the Yardbirds. This was about the time he became God overnight, although the truth was rather more prosaic – he was, in fact, a drunkard known for racist outbursts, a drug addict, a car destroyer and a serious philanderer who stole a Beatle’s wife.

And a brilliant guitarist, in a brilliant band. The Yardbirds put out ‘For Your Love’ in March 1965, at which point young Eric left and Jeff Beck (another prodigy) moved in. Jimmy Page was in the band too … sounds like a joke today. Sadly, there is no recording of the three of them together at that time, but they did record a session together in the 80s.

Anyway, back to Clapton. As Beck joined the Yardbirds lineup he left to join John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers, the best rolling blues band of the time and one that every competent musician seems to have done a stint with. A band with probably more line-ups than any other in the history of modern music. In Mayall he met a fellow blues purist, like him more into music than fame and fortune. They bonded. Clapton dropped his Fender for a Gibson Les Paul and ran it through a Marshall amp; the result is there on vinyl for all time.

The album was the breakthrough that Mayall was looking for, and made #6 on the UK album charts. Today it is recognised as one of the most influential blues albums of all time. But by the time it was released in July 1966 Clapton already had left the band with Cream in mind, to be replaced by Peter Green (did I say everyone who was anyone played with Mayall?). And as for the Beano album, well if you just listen to one track, ‘Steppin Out’, you’ll see why one morning all over London Clapton was hailed as God.

Track list
All Your Love (Otis Rush)
Hideaway (Freddie King, Sonny Thompson)
Little Girl (Mayall)
Another Man (Mayall)
Double Crossing Time (Clapton, Mayall)
What’d I Say (Ray Charles)
Key to Love (Mayall)
Parchman Farm (Mose Allison)
Have You Heard (Mayall)
Ramblin’ on My Mind (Robert Johnson)
Steppin’ Out (L. C. Frazier)
It Ain’t Right (Little Walter)

The Rock Machine Turns you on

When thinking of albums that have had an important impact on me, this album has to be right up there. I think it may have been the first rock sampler album ever, I don’t know, but it was certainly the first I saw or heard. I think it might also have been the first time I saw the word ‘rock’ that didn’t refer to the Hayleyesque ‘rock ‘n roll’ of my childhood.

Apparently in 1968 (three years before decimalisation)  I paid 14/6 (that’s 73p in new money) for this album. A ‘proper’ album would have put me back £1 17s 6d (£1.63p), so it was definitely the bargain offer I remember. But given the quality and variety of the album it was definitely worth it. Tracks carefully sampled from CBS albums of the time introduced me to artists I would otherwise never have known (or at least not for a fair time). As a collection the diversity is eclectic, comprising folk-rock, blues-rock, jazz-rock, country-rock, psychedelia and stuff that was just plain weird. Yet it somehow held together.

Two artists that I was especially turned on to were the short-lived United States of America and Taj Mahal. The United States of America was special for two reasons: they eschewed guitars and enjoyed the participation of the eerily, ethereally voiced Dorothy Moskowitz. Short-lived, yes, but an album still very much worth digging up today for curiosity and/or nostalgia– it’s on Spotify. The other track was by Taj Mahal, later to become a favourite of mine. He was an excellent pianist and guitarist and I had the good luck to see him on stage in Buenos Aires in the 1990s.

Other tracks were by names soon to become favourites too. Dylan was on CBS so he was represented, along with the Byrds, Simon & Garfunkel and Leonard Cohen. These I already knew. Lesser names I was introduced to and that have stayed with me include the Zombies, Tim Rose, the Electric Flag (Mike Bloomfield AND Buddy Miles), Blood Sweat & Tears and Roy Harper, the last of whom I saw regularly on the 60s university folk circuit.

A blast from the past, as they say. The album is available on Spotify, with certain omissions – presumably for reasons of copyright.

Tracklist

I’ll Be Your Baby Tonight – Bob Dylan – from the LP John Wesley Harding
Can’t Be So Bad – Moby Grape – from the LP Wow
Fresh Garbage – Spirit – from the LP Spirit
I Won’t Leave My Wooden Wife For You, Sugar – The United States of America – from the LP The United States of America
Time of the Season – The Zombies – from the LP Odessey and Oracle
Turn on a Friend – The Peanut Butter Conspiracy – from the LP The Great Conspiracy
Sisters of Mercy – Leonard Cohen – from the LP The Songs of Leonard Cohen
My Days Are Numbered – Blood, Sweat and Tears – from the LP Child Is Father to the Man
Dolphins Smile – The Byrds – from the LP The Notorious Byrd Brothers
Scarborough Fair / Canticle – Simon and Garfunkel – from the LP Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme
Statesboro Blues – Taj Mahal – from the LP Taj Mahal
Killing Floor – The Electric Flag – from the LP A Long Time Comin’
Nobody’s Got Any Money In The Summer – Roy Harper – from the LP Come Out Fighting Ghengis Smith
Come Away Melinda – Tim Rose – from the LP Tim Rose
Flames – Elmer Gantry’s Velvet Opera – from the LP Elmer Gantry’s Velvet Opera
 

 

The Tale of Antú and Cuyen

A Pehuenche creation tale

Image from http://www.veselka.by

At the very beginning of all time Ngünechen created Antú, the sun, and Cuyen, the moon. He fashioned them in the form of two young lovers who would reign over the Pehuenche lands and care for the people. Cuyen was pale of face, with wide eyes that sparkled light blue; she was warm, tender and caring and looked after the women and children. Antú was made tall and strong, with the flaming red hair and the ruddy face of a warrior; it was his job to care for the men of the tribe.

At first all went well between them, but as the years went by Antú became more self-centred and began to lose some of the care and fondness he had previously shown for the Pehuenche people. He became bad tempered, and when he was angry he would give off so much heat that those near him would get burned. When Cuyen reproached him for this he became even more furious with her and struck her around the head and face so hard that she nearly fell to earth. So angry was he that all the Pehuenches around him were exposed to the heat of his temper, which is why they are dark-skinned today.

Cuyen was beaten so badly that her face was for ever marked with the fingers of Antú, as you can see today if you look up to the night sky. After that it was clear that the flame that had been their love was extinguished and they hardly ever saw each other again, with one of them only coming out during the day and the other in the night.

For the sensitive Cuyen this separation brought great sadness. She could be seen at night, wan and downhearted, wandering through the fields of amancays and mutisias, through the forests of pehuenes y coihues. She still loved Antú, and her loss hurt her badly.

Night after night she reflected on what had been, until each dawn announced the arrival of Antú and it was time for her to retire. Sometimes she dreamed of their getting back together, but could not now see how, when they never even talked to each other any more. Had she but known it, Antú, who was not such a bad person apart from his short temper, had been harbouring similar thoughts but he was too proud to approach his wife and beg her pardon.

And so things stayed, until in the fading light of a young spring day Antú saw a young Pehuenche girl gathering flowers by a meadow brook. He fell for her immediately and swept her up, flying high, high into the firmament where he set her to be his companion for ever. He called her Collipal, or ‘Golden Star’; we still see her today and know her as the Evening Star, or more properly the planet Venus.

Such was Antú’s new love that he forgot completely and for ever his old love Cuyen, but it didn’t take long for her to realise that something had changed. At dusk one evening Cuyen saw Antú and Collipal close together, and it was crystal clear to her that her dreams of their getting back together were dashed for ever, and that she could and would never be with Antú again.

Realising that it really was all over her eyes filled with tears and she cried and cried and cried. She cried for such a long time that her tears formed a large pool, and that pool we know today as the Alumine Lake. From there, the water spilled into all the other streams and rivers of the south that we see today.

And since that day, in the clear and calm Patagonian nights, those limpid waters reflect Cuyen’s eternal yet hopeless love for Antú.

 

 

The tale of Copahue

The village of Copahue can be found in the Andes, some 2000 metres above sea-level and set in a wild landscape moulded by storming winds, creeping glaciers and endless volcanic eruptions. Today it is known for its thermal springs. Here is a legend of how it got its name.

There was once a people who lived high in the Andes. Theirs was a peaceful land, and little ever happened to disturb the tranquillity of the region.

The chieftain of this tribe had a young son called Copahue. One day, bored with life, Copahue decided to explore what lay beyond the mountains where he lived. He gathered together a few friends and set out in search of adventure.

On the morning of the third day Copahue left the others and went for a walk in a leafy forest near where they had camped. Through the trees he saw a crystal blue lake, and swimming in it, all alone, was the most beautiful girl he had ever seen. Tall and slender, she had shining black hair that reached to her waist. He stood, watching her, mesmerised. She saw him, smiled, came modestly out of the water and walked towards him.

Little did Copahue know, nor could,  that this lovely apparition was in fact a witch, who had guided Copahue to this place with a charm. In his love and ignorance Copahue fell head-over-heels in love with her and, surprisingly, she fell in love with him too. Love conquers all, and in this case it transformed the witch’s evil intentions into those of a normal human being.

Their love was real, and Copahue and the beautiful girl, who not only had long dark hair but also had flashing black eyes to match, decided to get married. But when they heard of this the other people of the tribe were against the union. For them the girl was an outsider, and they feared the unknown. A meeting of the elders was called, and they forbade the marriage on pain of death.

The two young people didn’t care. They were in love, and that was all that mattered to them. So they disobeyed the tribal elders and got married anyway. But punishment was at hand, and even though Copahue’s son was the chief of the tribe justice must be met. After a second, brief meeting of the elders Copahue was condemned to death for disobeying the orders of his father and the elders. He was dragged from his home to the edge of the village and hanged from the branch of an algarrobo tree.

On hearing his sentence his young wife had run away; there was no place for her there now. She ran and ran and ran, until she found herself back by the lake where they had met. Here she sat down and started to cry.  Her tears fell into the lake, and immediately the water started to turn yellow, and then to boil. A horrible, sulphur like smell filled the air. The girl, who was a witch we should perhaps remember, threw herself into the steaming pool and was seen no more.

Today this place is called Copahue, and can be found in Ñorquín, in the north of Neuquén Province. If you find yourself there some time enjoying the thermal springs, do remember the fate of Copahue and the girl he loved.

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Two tales of Calafate

The Calafate is a bush that grows in Patagonia. There is a legend that anyone who eats the berries from this bush will always return to the region. Here are two tales relating to this; one from the Ona people that used to live in Tierra del Fuego and the other from the Tehuelches, a nomadic people that lived further north. Sadly both of these peoples are no longer with us.

Tale 1

There was once a tribal chieftain of a race that lived at the bottom of the world and is now completely lost to us. He had a beautiful daughter called Calafate who had jet black hair and huge yellow-golden eyes, and he was very proud and very protective of her.

One day a young man named Selk’nam from another tribe happened to pass by where the young girl lived. He spotted Calafate walking on the shore and approached her; their eyes met and they were both immediately smitten. They met once again, and that day they pledged undying love and a lifetime together.

But their tribes warred with each other and the young lovers knew their elders would never accept them marrying, so they decided to run away together. The chieftain heard of their plans and was very upset. After long thought he decided that his daughter must have become possessed by the evil spirit Gualicho; why else would she consort with his enemies?  In his anger he consulted his shaman and told him to do whatever was necessary to stop Calafate and Selk’nam escaping.

The shaman was not a bad person but he was obedient to his chief, and he used his magic to turn the young girl into a bush with yellow flowers, the bush that we know today as the Calafate bush. She would be going nowhere now.

Selk’nam soon found out that she had been transformed and was now covered with sharp thorns. He could look at her, but could never touch her. His frustration was overbearing. Each yellow flower reminded him of her deep, golden eyes. Heart-broken, he died in the night of grief.

When the shaman heard of Selk’nam’s death he felt bad and caused the flowers on the bush to change into delicious purple berries, formed from the heart of the brave young man. These are the berries that appear each year in the Autumn, and it is said today that anyone who eats these berries is bewitched by the shaman’s spells on Calafate and Selk’nam, and once they have tasted the fruit they will always be drawn magically back to Patagonia.

Tale 2

The Tehuelche people were indigenous, nomadic tribesmen who inhabitated the Patagonian pampas where today are the Provinces of Chubut and Santa Cruz. Tourists visiting the region today may have seen the caves filled with painted hands that their ancestors left hundreds of years ago.

One day, many moons ago, the chief of the tribe decided it was time to move north. Winter was approaching and they needed to be further away from the snow and ice that would soon arrive. An elderly woman in the tribe realized that she was too old and weak to travel with the others, so when the time to leave came she hid and was left behind to endure the hardships of winter alone.  Some women in the tribe left for her a tent made from guanaco skins and some wood and food to keep her alive, but her companions didn’t think she would survive the harsh winter weather.

But the old woman did not die. Not exactly. Through some kind of magic, and it is not clear whose, she was mysteriously transformed into a bush with yellow flowers; the bush we know today as the Calafate. The bush provided shelter for the birds, protecting them from the cold wind and ice. And each year, as winter approached, the bush bore berries which provided them with food. Year on year the birds would return to safety of the the magical calafate bush.

Indeed, some birds stopped migrating altogether and as the news spread many of those who had left returned to try the new fruit. So did the Tehuelches when they returned the following spring, and they quickly adopted this new plant as part of their diet. Slowly the plant propagated throughout the region and now it can be seen everywhere, And they say that for ever after, like the birds and the Tehueches of old, for they are long gone too, “whosoever eats of the Calafate berry will always return to Patagonia”.